Having returned from Ghana last week, I can say that I absolutely loved it there! However, while in Ghana I didn't always feel like this especially at the beginning when one has to get accustomed to a different kind of life. In this post I want to discuss ten things I had to get used too; so if any of you are planning to go there you can mentally prepare yourself to be engulfed by whole new lifestyle, culture and attitude.
1. GMT = Ghanian Maybe Time
This was something I read about in the guide book but didn't pay much attention as being an Indian I thought I knew all about late timings (Indian Standard Time for all of you that know what I am talking about). However, Ghanian Maybe Time is lateness on a whole new level. My flight landed at 5am in Accra airport and I didn't receive my luggage till 6.30am. This meant unlike some of the other volunteers when I got out my driver was waiting for my with a VPWA sign. That morning I was given an induction presentation by the founder of the organisation and was informed that a 'Richard' would come to the house at 10am and show me around the area, where to have money changed etc. I waited till noon and he had not showed up and ended up falling asleep. When I woke up at 2pm, he just walked in and that is when I quickly understood the concept of time was different not just to the Western meaning of time but to the Indian too. Timing does not exist in Ghana so do not be upset if nothing arrives or is done on time. Actually, I embraced this and I lived with the GMT attitude myself because that is the best way or you'll spend most of your time furious at something which for the locals is the norm.
2. No Wifi?
This is probably due my own ignorance but I think it is important to point out as for any city dweller like myself, internet is so readily available. I was told before I go that when I arrive if I pay the organisation $40 then I would be able to have access to internet. I understood this as wi-fi availability so all I took with my was a Kindle (which confused every single local as they did not understand the concept of electronic reading) and iPhone. In my induction presentation I was given a blank sim and told top it up at any near by station and then make a payment of $40 and you can have access to a modem and the organisations computers. This really shocked and worried me. It meant no tweeting or Instagramming, what was I supposed to do rely on a sim? In general, wi-fi isn't readily available like it is when walking around in London. Personally, I found the first week went so fast that I didn't need the internet and in the last fortnight I found myself using an internet cafe near where I worked. It is cheaper and you can do what you need too.
3. Rice, Beans, Rice, Beans, Rice, Beans....okay you get it
Food. It was shocking to find out that Ghanian cuisine basically consisted of rice, beans, meat and chilli. That was one thing that even in the third week that used to annoy me but I did find a way around it. I guess I come from a privileged household where a different cuisine of food is served every day so eating such similar, if not the same, things everyday really took some getting used too. Another thing is that locals understand the term 'vegetarian' to mean you would like to have salad with your meat and rice so do not be shocked if you are vegetarian. Personally, I am not a vegetarian but found myself being on in Ghana simply because (a) living with chickens, goats, sheep etc and seeing that they are not clean, I mean even me it was hard to stay clean just because of the physical environment, so I could not and (b) the first dinner I was given was goat and it really smelt strong so it put me off meat. How did I deal with this? So one solution was not eating the fish and meat, but also I brought lots of food from London so I lived off that and I would have lots of Coke and 'Fan Milk' which is soft ice cream to give me energy. Also, for vegetarians, fried rice and noodles are delicious. 'Red-Red' is there only vegetarian dish but it gave me indigestion, I really liked Jollof rice but that has some meat essence. Fried Yams and Plantains are basically the vegetables eaten there and are available but I found them bland so I didn't eat much of them either.
4. Arctic Showers
As a Westerner I am used to power showers that can provide large amounts of hot water for on average 30mins. I associate such showers with cleanliness so going to Pokuase was quite something. There was no hot water and the water power was bare minimal. I spent the first week struggling to clean myself, literally putting one arm at a time in hot water and back! Oh that was just so painful even when it is hot climate. Furthermore, Pokuase is basically a village, most roads you are walking on are dirt roads and the office and tro-tros are not sparkling clean. So be prepared to have cold showers or like what I learnt to do from the second week is heat water in a stove and use a mug to clean yourself with that hot water.
5. Marriage/God
It is important to understand before you go that marriage and God is the foundation for life in Ghana. It wasn't too bad for me to get my head around this given my Indian ethnicity but for others this might seem bizarre. Ghanians believe that in the end its all going to be okay because if you pray to God with a true heart, He will help you. So any issues you discuss with locals this is the answer you will get. This religious side seeps into every aspect of life. Ghana is notorious for having religious named shops such as 'Jesus the Son of God Forex' and religious messages on billboards, taxis and tro-tros, e.g. one taxi I went in had 'Love thy neighbour' written across it. Radio stations and TVs will have Hymns and discuss things like how God created Adam and Eve and we should live in twos side by side. Marriage then is the second pillar stone. There is no point to your life is you are not married. So brace yourself to be time and time again asked about your marriage plans. Personally, I lied because the marriage lecture gets boring after a while so I would say that I am married and I showed photos of Russell Brand to prove it!
6. No make up?
Just like a Ghanian does not question going to Church on Sundays or getting married, I don't question my daily getting dressed ritual which has been altered since I have returned. Before I went, I would wake up every morning and without thinking I would change my clothes, do my hair and wear some light make up. In Ghana, this was not the case. First, we did not have a proper mirror so on our weekend trips away when I found a mirror I was always shocked to look at myself and my growing tan. Second I did do my daily routine the first two days I was there but quickly learnt that (A) make up just melts in the humidity and (B) people thinks you are absolutely weird for wearing make up. Moreover, being an Obruni (non-black person) I got a lot of attention so I didn't want t draw more unnecessary intention. Having not worn make up for three weeks or left my hair out even in a pony has in a weird way made me feel more comfortable with myself. When I first started wearing it, it was because my skin had got a bit of acne was not particularly nice and now the acne has gone but the habit has not. So not wearing make-up enhanced with the fact that I was getting marriage proposals on a daily basis has given me quite a self-esteem boost! So my advice is don't take make up it won't be used.
8. No evenings
I felt like the concept of an evening did not exist in Ghana which is something you have to get used too. At around 6pm the sun goes in the space of 20mins I think and you are left with darkness. There was no elongated evening time like in London. It probably doesn't help that you never see the night in London as there are always street lights, building etc and unlike in Pokuase we have no such thing as a electricity power cut! This takes some adapting because if you want to go for evening walks you need to take a flashlight as likely hood is you won't return while its still light and if you do thats a day walk not evening! A lot of your plans when you are there will be factoring in the fact that there is no evening light and thats something you'll notice while there.
9. Natural Alarm Clocks
I guess power cuts are not a big deal as locals have ways of dealing with things which don't require electricity. One example is alarm clocks. Now I didn't have to leave for work till 8.45am and given my getting dressed only included breakfast, change of clothes and plaiting my hair I didn't need to wake up till 8 but I did every single morning even on weekends wake up at 5am. The reason being two natural alarm clocks exist. One is fairly obvious the morning sun is extremely bright and despite curtains it manages to seep through and the second involves animals. I lived near a family who owned every single type of animal that existed and my room was at the front of the house which made sound extremely loud. Every morning at 5, 5.3.0, 6, 6:30, 7 and 7:30, the roosters/cockerels/chickens/hen (I am not sure which one) would go off, the chicks would follow suit. The goats, dogs, cats and even children would respond back and this went on the whole morning. Morning sleep did not exist. I would lie in bed for literally three hours unable to sleep, just chilling because of noise. Not sure I ever adapted or got used to it but be warned!
10. Danielle Steel or the Bible
In Ghana I found I had a lot of spare time, probably because of the lack of internet. As a result you find yourself reading more, so I recommend you bring enough books too last you including spares as books are not something you can readily buy. And when you get lucky and go into the city and find a book stall or shop there exists only two types of books (a) Danielle Steel which was fine as I love her books and (b) Christianity related teachings book. I even went to a book shop which was written in the guide book (there are only two) and this was in Accra Mall. The book store was largely based on religious book and books about Obama and a small book shelf dedicated to fiction where Danielle Steel did exist but there were a few other authors. Do not expect a large selection and say thriller is your type of book, bring enough to last you!
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